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An Open - Air Rural Art Gallery
If Rajasthan is endowed with the valorous mantle of India,
Shekhawati is its colourful hub. Just as
local lore is redolent of heroic deeds, Rajasthani painting displays
decorative forms vividly composed in colourful schemes. Be it the forts,
havelis, cenotaphs or temples, nowhere is such a profusion of frescoes to
be found as in Shekhawati, sometimes known as the 'Open Air Art Gallery'
of Rajasthan.
Many
names on the Shekhawati circuit have attained the top end of the visitor's
priorities. Nawalgarh, Dundlod, Mandawa and Lachhmangarh are among these.
Somewhat different in feel, just a few hours from Delhi beyond the
Mahendergarh
district of Haryana, lies the Shekhawati settlement of Khetri.
LEGEND
Legends abound here. One of them relates to the medieval chieftain Mokal
Singh of Barwara. Attributing the arrival of his heir to the benediction
of a certain Sheikh Burhan, the child was named Shekha. When the young lad
ascended the 'gaddi' or the throne with the exalted title of Rao Shekhaji,
not many would have predicted his rule would last 43 years.
That is how the region came to be known as Shekhawati, or the garden of
Shekha, extending across the districts of Sikar, Jhunjhunu and Churu in
northeast Rajasthan. While the centre of Shekhawati power was subject to
the vicissitudes of fortune swings from the Rajputs to the British, it was
the doughty Marwaris who ensured the survival of the local art from.
In the arid rural setting, the ebb and flow of life is best embodied by
the camel. In winter, the air is crisp and the time is right for savouring
the visual delights of Shekhawati. To begin with, a first-hand initiation
to the traditional mode of transport is recommended : for a relatively
moderate sum, a camel driver will present the opportunity to ride his
stately steed. As one tries one's hand at ceremonially tying a turban, one
notices that the manner in which the spoken word is rendered in truly
dignified.
Reputedly the second most wealthy 'thikana' owing allegiance to the old
court of Jaipur, Khetri reveals its finest
frescoes in the Raghunath Temple. From the resident priest, one will learn
that even as Shiva and Durga are revered, it is the frolicsome Krishna who
holds presiding status in worship. One of the highlights in the religious
calendar is the Geendad dance, performed during the colourful festival of
Holi. Within this unique culturally kaleidoscopic forts, art, music,
festivals and cuisine, the most enduring Shekhawati images are without
doubt, its frescoes. Virtually every inch of space in the edifices
displays a mastery of technique. The original craftsmen were potters and
masons who used vegetable pigments. Re-inforced by mixing in lime water
and pound to plaster, the material did not fade and endured harsh climatic
variations.
Air: Nearest Airport Jaipur at 120-km.
Rail: Closest railhead is Jhunjhunu
(45-km away).
Road: Nearest cities accessible from Khetri are Delhi (130-140-km
approx.) and Jaipur (120-km).
Heritage hotels, guesthouses and hut accommodation are easily available in Khetri.