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A Symphony Of Colours
Against the backdrop of dusty land and sun-soaked skies, Rajasthan is
filled with opulent colours, the sparkle of mirror and silver and precious
stones, and the sheen of silk and vivid kaleidoscope of cotton. The exotic
and vividly colourful state of Rajasthan is synonymous with majestic
forts, stately palaces, lakes, sand dunes, camels and people dressed in
brightly coloured costumes.
To
add a dash of colour and life to the barren, colourless landscape and the
monotonous, cloudless sky, the people of Rajasthan show a distinct
preference for bright costumes. From the simple village folk or tribal
belle to the royalty, the preferred colours are bright red, dazzling
yellow, lively green or brilliant orange, highlighted by a lavish use of
sparkling gold and silver ‘zari’ or ‘gota’.
The dyers of Rajasthan and neighbouring Gujarat were masters of their
craft from the dawn of history. Their unsurpassed skill is still evident
in the costumes worn by the Rajasthani people, both rich and poor.
The study of the people of Rajasthan is incomplete without the knowledge
of costumes and ornaments. The costumes of the present have the
reflections of the costumes of the past. Clothes express one’s
personality and distinguish people of different places from each other.
The Brilliance Of Hues
Both males and females dress in the customary dresses fully influenced by
climate, economy, status and the profession. The traditional dresses being
‘potia’, ‘dhoti’, ‘banda’, ‘angrakha’,
‘bugatari’, ‘pachewara’, ‘khol’, ‘dhabla’,
amongst Hindus; and ‘tilak’, ‘burga’, ‘achkan’
amongst Muslims, which are fast changing now with ‘bushirt’, ‘salwar’
and ‘skirts’, saris and pants accordingly.
Turban, the head dress of Rajasthani men, is a differential pattern, of
each geographical region designed to suit terrain and climatic influence.
All over Rajasthan, the ‘bandhni’, the tie-and-dye sari and
turban reign supreme.
The common dress of the women constitutes (i) sari or ‘odhani’,
(ii) ‘kanchli’ or ‘kunchuki’ or ‘choli’
(iii) ‘ghaghra’ or ‘ghaghri’ or ‘lahanga’.
Besides, the women of high status and ranks wear ‘dupatta’ and ‘patka’.
The use of chappals or sandals or ‘jutees’ is also common but
ladies of high families use coloured sandals studded with gold threads and
stars.
THE DIVERSE ATTIRE
Royal Wardrobe
The rich and opulent dresses of the royalty were made under the
meticulous attention of special departments in charge of royal costumes
while the ‘Ranghkhana’ and the ‘Chhapakhana’ were
departments that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics
respectively. The ‘siwankhana’ ensured its flawless and
articulate tailoring. Two special sections, the ‘toshakhanand’
and the ‘kapaddwadra’, took care of the daily wear and formal
costumes of the king.
Traditional textiles
Rajasthani
daily wear such as saris, ‘odhnis’ and turbans are often made
from textiles using either blockprinted or tie-and-dye techniques.
Rajput Costumes
The Rajput kings, owing their close proximity to the Mughal court dressed
up in their colourful and formal best. Richly brocaded material from
Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate
cottons from Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at great cost.
Men's Attire
The turban, variously called ‘pagari’, ‘pencha’, ‘sela’
or ‘safa’ depending on style, an ‘angrakha’ or ‘achakan’
as the upper garment and ‘dhoti’ or ‘pyjama’ as the
lower garment make up the male outfit.
Turban Styles
Varying styles of turban denote region and caste. These variations are
known by different names such as ‘pagari’ and ‘safa’.
Infact, there are about 1,000 different styles and types of turbans in
Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste and region of the wearer.
Turbans come in all shapes, sizes and colours; and there are specific
turbans for specific occasions as well.
A ‘pagari’ is usually 82 feet long and 8 inches wide. A ‘safa’
is shorter and broader. The common man wears turban of one color, while
the elite wear designs and colors according to the occasion.
Women's Attire
The standard design is a four-piece dress which includes the ‘ghagra’
(skirt), the ‘odhni’ (head cloth), the ‘kurti’ (a
short blouse) and the ‘kanchi’ (a long, loose blouse).
Odhni
It is 10 feet long and 5 feet wide, One corner is tucked in the skirt
while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder. Colours and
motifs are particular to caste, type of costume and occasion. Both Hindu
and Muslims women wear ‘odhnis’.
Pila
An ‘odhni’ with a yellow background and a central lotus motif
in red called a ‘pila’, is a traditional gift of parent to their
daughter on the birth of a son. The vibrant and colourful land of
Rajasthan, with hospitable and well-attired men and women add a splash of
colour to the otherwise parched landscape.